Until recently, cult clothing label Vetements was produced by an anonymous collective of Paris-based designers. Information surrounding the group was scarce: there were approximately seven of them, at least several of which were former employees of Maison Martin Margiela. By the time LVMH announced the eight finalists for its Young Fashion Designers Prize earlier this year, however, Vetements had a face and a founder: the Georgia-born and Antwerp-educated Demna Gvasalia, a former student of Walter van Beirendonck at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts and alumnus of Margiela and Louis Vuitton.
“We didn’t really choose to be anonymous; many of us had other jobs” explains Gvasalia. “Vetements started as an enthusiastic project that we did on the weekends and at night after work. We couldn’t have our names really out—we were obliged to not be out there—but also our idea was really to push the product,” he continues. The immediate comparisons with Margiela, however, forced Vetements to rethink their strategy: “We decided that we were going to talk about things, but we all prefer to be in the background of the work we do.”
Only three seasons old, Vetements launched its first collection in March 2014. The label’s second collection showed at Paris Fashion Week, and Autumn Winter 2015 debuted at Parisian gay club Le Depot to a crowd that included Kanye West and Jared Leto.
Vetements is exclusive to and available at 4 now.
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