A Round-Up of Autumn/Winter 2010/11

AW2010/2011 presentations are over of course but courtesy of ‘Business of Fashion’, let’s take a look at some of the defining moments of the season…

The Late Alexander McQueen

The biggest news, of course, was the tragic passing of fashion icon Alexander McQueen, who’s death left a gaping hole in the industry. Whilst the future of his brand remained uncertain, the industry paid tribute in various ways during London Fashion Week – a message board at Somerset House and a digital memorial at On/Off were physical mark-stones whilst celebrities, journalists and fans flooded the internet with personal notes.

Instead of the usual exaggerated runway show during Paris Fashion Week, McQueen’s team decided instead on an intimate presentation in which small groups of editors could gather for his final looks. Stepping away from the world of internet which he had so powerfully harnessed in previous seasons, Lee McQueen wanted to quite literally return to the beginning and foundation of his handcraft, with references to medieval artwork and Byzantine culture.

The following looks are part of the 16-strong collection, which were only 80 percent complete at the time of his death.

Emerging Markets

Move over China and India and make way for the latest markets to spread their fashion wings: Korea and Brazil.

The Korean fashion industry seemed to explode with creativity this season with Nick Knight flying the flag with a fashion film for Korean designer Kuho.  And on the other side of the world, the Brazilian market has been slowly emerging on an international scale, with the luxury sector a dominating entity. We saw some impressive talent during Sao Paulo Fashion Week earlier this year.

Ones to watch…

Location, Location…

The fashion crowd are creatures of habit, so the news that the enormous Bryant Park Tents would no longer act as the site of New York Fashion Week must have come as quite a blow. As they bade farewell to this iconic location and looked to welcome what would become the new fashion hub, the Lincoln Centre at Columbus Circle, they heralded the occasion with a big old party at the city’s unofficial fashion centre, Milk Studios. The event featured more than twenty shows and presentations from luminary figures in the industry, including Patrik Ervell and Joseph Altuzarra, and was a great means of introducing a new fashion chapter. 

 The Rise and Rise of Bloggers

Fashion blogging has truly captured the world’s attention, and this attitude was particularly apparent at the recent Independent Fashion Bloggers Conference held in New York. Not only was the event oversubscribed two times over, it also garnered a great level of coverage within prominent elements of the mainstream media, such as The New York Magazine and Women’s Wear Daily.

The state of fashion blogging has never been quite so central to the concerns of the fashion industry, and such a lively debate concerning the ethical nature of the system of blogging served to reflect the importance of the sites as a means of communicating to a broader demographic.

The panel featured prominent fashion figures such as Susie Bubble of Stylebubble.com fame and the blogger on everyone’s lips a the moment, Tavi Gevinson, who provided a particularly charming and youthful interpretation of the crucial stature of the blogging industry.

 The success of the blogging trend shows no signs of abating, and as long as the crucial figures maintain a level of originality and creative spirit with regards to their site content, the industry can only continue to thrive.  

Live Streaming Not a Worthy Substitute for the Real Deal

Live streaming hit it’s peak this season, and naturally, caused quite the stir amongst keen fashion followers. The key question prevailed:  how does watching a live show on your computer screen compare to the feel of actually being there?

Well, it seems that it doesn’t…quite. In the same way that watching a tennis match or live concert on the television appears to distill the power and emotional punch of the action portrayed, so does a live stream showcase. Indeed, no matter how impressive the show may be, the experience of attending a show wholly outshines any form of live streaming on the net.

While it may be a means of reaching a broad audience; and similarly, a handy tactic for buyers and editors who are otherwise engaged. Fundamentally, this medium will struggle to possess a similar draw to a live fashion show for those in the industry…

Fresh from the Catwalk

In addition to the surge of live streaming, there was a interesting dimension to the Burberry and Proenza Schouler shows this season, with fans being able to snap up key pieces immediately after the show.

At Proenza Schouler, the jewel in the crown was the PS11 bag. Of a similar ilk to the classic PS1 bag, which has now achieved cult status in the US, the PS11 drew hoards of fashion bloggers in the throws of post-show euphoria!

The offer was a real crystal ball in terms of future trends…

Phoebe Philo Wows at Celine Once Again… and Others Attempt to Follow in her Minimalist Footsteps.

Phoebe Philo’s first collection for Celine in October of last year was a real highlight, and it looks as though she has pulled off a similar triumph this season.

Not only did innumerable editors and influential buyers happily parade their camel overcoats and blazers as they awaited a second blaze of glory from the inspired Philo, but it seemed that fellow designers had taken note of her  minimalist approach to modern cool. From the simplistic, elegantly unfussy collection of former partner Stella McCartney’s to Reed Krakoff’s debut collection in New York, the minimalist silhouette dominated the runway.

While Phoebe Philo’s presence was palpable this season, her influence did not extend to the latest collection from trail-blazer Rick Owens, who instilled a lively spirit into his now widely-copied aesthetic through the addition of baubles, fur, fresh colours and even horn-appliques.

Here’s a designer that doesn’t play by the rules…

For the full blog post see: http://www.businessoffashion.com/




'Hexa by Kuho', Nick Knight

'Hexa by Kuho', Nick Knight




Proenza Shouler PS 11

Proenza Shouler PS 11