Determined to honor his own vision, while subtly nodding to old-school styles, David Koma has set out to create a modern wardrobe rather than a spectacle for his first Mugler collection. Here, he speaks about avoiding the archive, his plans for Mugler, and what it means to respect a legacy.

What role has Mugler’s designs played in the development of your aesthetic?
I started designing at a very early age. I saw this documentary when I was 13 about Mugler, and it had all the shows on video. I recorded it and I watched it again and again—I was completely blown away by the visual effects and the fantasy, the body proportions, the cuts, and the materials.

How does a designer go about respecting an iconic house such as Mugler while staying true to his own aesthetic?
One of the first steps is not messing around with the archives. I love the legacy of the house from the bottom of my heart. And whatever I bring, I think doing it gently, and understanding the woman’s body in a similar way, but in a different era, is important.

How does designing for Mugler differ from designing your eponymous collection? Do you change your approach at all?
The design process is similar because I try to be true to myself. But I’m working in two different cities with two completely different teams. It makes a big difference.

What are some of your goals for the house down the line?
For the first year, we’re going to concentrate on the ready-to-wear and making that really strong and perfect. We plan to launch an accessory line quite soon.

Mugler is exclusive to 4.

Shop the collection here.

Read the full post on Style.com.