David Koma Opens Up About the New Mugler
Determined to honor his own vision, while subtly nodding to old-school styles, David Koma has set out to create a modern wardrobe rather than a spectacle for his first Mugler collection. Here, he speaks about avoiding the archive, his plans for Mugler, and what it means to respect a legacy.
What role has Mugler’s designs played in the development of your aesthetic?
I started designing at a very early age. I saw this documentary when I was 13 about Mugler, and it had all the shows on video. I recorded it and I watched it again and again—I was completely blown away by the visual effects and the fantasy, the body proportions, the cuts, and the materials.
How does a designer go about respecting an iconic house such as Mugler while staying true to his own aesthetic?
One of the first steps is not messing around with the archives. I love the legacy of the house from the bottom of my heart. And whatever I bring, I think doing it gently, and understanding the woman’s body in a similar way, but in a different era, is important.
How does designing for Mugler differ from designing your eponymous collection? Do you change your approach at all?
The design process is similar because I try to be true to myself. But I’m working in two different cities with two completely different teams. It makes a big difference.
What are some of your goals for the house down the line?
For the first year, we’re going to concentrate on the ready-to-wear and making that really strong and perfect. We plan to launch an accessory line quite soon.
Mugler is exclusive to 4.
Shop the collection here.
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