One of our favourite designers, Haider Ackermann, spoke with Eugene Rabkin of Style Zeitgeist following his Spring Summer 2016 Menswear Collection at Galliera Museum earlier this year.

“There is an unapologetic luxury in Ackermann’s work, to the point of decadence, as if his ideal woman (and more recently, man) spends her time lounging around in pajamas so elegant that she needs not bother changing when she finally goes out in the evening.” notes Rabkin.

Are you happy with the show and the response so far?

Yeah, I feel much more at ease now. It was a first show, so there was a kind of fresh energy to it. I loved the music and the venue, and casting was perfect. Working with all these boys is such a pleasure. They are so generous with their kindness and the easiness.

You have developed luxury that is specific to you, in a way that is very relaxed, nonchalant. How do you find that balance?

It is very strange because, especially in the men’s collections, it’s just too much noise. When men are being admired, when all those men are immaculate and perfectly dressed, it makes me want to be one of them. I would like to be proper dressed and I would like to be exact and sharp in my appearance. But I am not one of those men. When I dress, I want to put the garment on and everything is here with me. It’s basically a part of who I am. I’m not an anxious person. I have to feel at ease to feel comfortable.

You once said something about “unapologetic luxury.” I feel that with everything that is going on in the world, people do have to apologize for luxury, which is unnecessary. There is a space for serious things, but that does not automatically negate space for other things.

There is a space for beauty, and there is a space for searching for beauty. When you see the violence that is going on in the world, especially nowadays when you see what is happening in Tunisia and elsewhere, I think there is also a big urge for certain beauty. It puts our lives in balance. Because otherwise, where would we be? It’s a gift nowadays, to escape with beauty.

Are there any particular fabrics that you keep coming back to that you love?

Yes, I’ve always been attracted to jacquard. I would love to work more with leather, because it is something that is very primal in the sense of a second skin. There is a sexuality and sensuality to it, and an animal instinct about it. It makes everything more edgy.

Is there a difference in your approach in designing for men and women?

There’s a certain easiness to designing for men; it is less calculated, which gives me more freedom. Perhaps with the woman I’m thinking it through more, because she is more of stranger to me. Even if she is close to me, the men’s comes more naturally. I’m very close to him.

Haider Ackermann is exclusive to 4.

Shop the 4 Archive for men here and Women here.

Read the full post on Style Zeitgeist.