Menswear A/W 2010/11 – Paris Runway Review

Next season’s menswear, shown in Paris last week, seemed to revolve around a similar ethos – a reinterpretation of the classics; familiar shapes expressing different aesthetics.

Stefano Pilati set the tone for the season with his foray into the juxtaposition of structure and draping. His sophisticated take on the classic ‘overall’ seemed a well-timed frivolity, whilst his tailored silhouettes were as immaculate as ever. Pilati played on another big characteristic of Paris this season – the overlap of womenswear onto the mens’ catwalks. Softly-draped trousers are a stubtle nod to the harem trend that swept womenswear for SS10, whilst elbow-length gloves lend a feminine elegance to the sharp lines of Pilati’s tailoring.

Continuing on with these themes was Alber Elbaz for Lanvin who presented a collection of slouchy tailoring, cocoon knits and flamboyant fabrics in muted shades of grey, blue and black for winter.

Kriss van Assche, who’s SS10 collection is hitting 4 very soon, used a similar colour palette to produce a collection that was a little less tailored, and a little more street. Checked cottons punctuated an otherwise balanced mix of greys and blacks, with subtle references to the drop-crotch trousers we saw at YSL.

Also stocked at 4 is Henrik Vibskov, who injected a little energy  into otherwise colourless proceedings at fashion week. Models sported whimsical spectacles and white-tipped fingers as they took to the runway in a sea of colour. Silhouettes were loose and forgiving, whilst patterns were multi-coloured and loud. Again, we saw feminine references in kilt-shapes and leggings. 


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