After last season’s now legendary show at Le Dépôt, excitement surrounding the Parisian design collective headed up by Demna Gvasalia has rapidly grown.

Gvasalia, an alumnus of Maison Martin Margiela, has been referred to as Mr. Margiela’s “spiritual son” and its not hard to see why – the ethos of deconstruct and reconstruct, reorient and reconsider informs Vetements approach throughout.

The show featured men and women (friends and fashion insiders as well as models, assembled by the collective and by Lotta Volkova, its stylist, who herself closed the show) in sock-boots and smock dresses, floral aprons laminated like tablecloths and graphic-printed sweatshirts. Dresses and jackets gaped open in back, revealing vistas of skin.

To those outside the bubble of fashion, the paroxysms over these clothes and this show might seem hard to explain: the bad-on-purpose haircuts, the frantic hodgepodge of it all. To those inside it, conditioned to fashion week’s on-the-hour displays of marketing-driven shows, it felt urgent, underground and authentic.

Vetements is exclusive to 4.

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